A tiny spot at the back of Dublin Castle is where, if you're lucky, you'll find some of the best woodfired pizza in all of Dublin. We say 'if you're lucky' because Bottega Toffoli seats max 10 people, is run by just one man, and you never really know when it will be open. But when it is, it's SO worth the wait. With a chalkboard menu letting you know the dishes of the day, and owner Carlo running around serving, chatting, and cooking all the food, Toffoli is more like the sorta place you'd discover in a winding side street in Naples.

    The pizza crusts are charred and doughy, perfect for sopping up some olive oil and salt, while toppings range from creamy buffalo mozzarella, to Calabrian salami and Italian sausages. The pies are cooked to perfection, their wonky shape making them taste even better, fired up and sliced by an expert Pizzaiola. There's also usually pasta specials and fresh fish on the menu, simply grilled and bursting with flavour.         You'll be hard pressed to find such a genuinely authentic pizzaria anywhere else in the city centre. Call ahead to check if it'll be open, and to book a table (you REALLY need to book) on 01 6334022. Enjoy.